Repairing Imitation Rush

Q I have an Arts & Crafts chair that has a seat made of that rush-like, twisted paper material. Some people call it Lloyd Loom, some call it rush, only it isn’t the natural rush plant material. Although the seat in question is in perfect condition without a single broken fiber, it looks patchy and dry as if some of the original finish has worn off over the years. We’d like to coat it with something that would bring back a uniform medium-brown coloration. We don’t want it to be shiny, just more or less even in color. Is there any material you would recommend as an overcoat that won’t diminish the lifespan of the paper? We’ve been given suggestions including polyurethane, varithane, Formby’s tung oil and Formby’s lemon oil, but these ideas are from people who are not familiar with the material.

A I’m familiar with both real and “faux” rush seats, and have touched up both kinds. Over the course of this chair’s life it may have been coated with shellac to bind and strengthen the twisted paper rush, and you’re right—the dry, patchy look results from the wearing down of the shellac through use. Replacing the shellac should restore the color. A Q-tip soaked in mineral spirits applied to a small part of the wear area will darken the fiber, immediately giving you a glimpse of what the color would be with just a topcoat of shellac and telling you if the shellac alone will restore the color. (When the mineral spirits dry, the fiber will go back to its worn color.)

If you decide you need to stain the rush a little to achieve that medium brown shade of the original, you can use alcohol-soluble aniline dye, which dries instantly, or oil- or water-based stains available in hardware stores. Allow enough time for the stain to dry, then topcoat with shellac. One thinned coat of shellac should be enough to seal the dye in (too much can make the repaired areas shinier than the surrounding area). Using a small artist’s brush, test a small area with stain and shellac first to achieve a match to the original. Remember, it’s easier to start with a lighter color and go darker until the color is perfect.

Your first goal is to achieve a color match. The second is to match the sheen of the repair to the original. Lemon oil is a quick fix but never dries and also attracts dirt, which will make the damaged areas appear darker over time. Tung oil does have driers in it, but is not reversible like shellac. Polyurethane and varithane in this case are unacceptable.